 Lobuche peak has two summits, East and West with
heights of 6119m and 6145m respectively. A
continuous ridge connects them, but it is long
and there is a considerable height loss and
gain. The East Peak is recognised as a trekking
peak, whereas the West is known as an Expedition
Peak . Lobuje being an attractive mountain
offers various existing routes and also the
potential for new ones. The dark triangle of the
rocky east face rises over the moraines of the
Khumbu Glacier to a spectacular skyline, forming
the south ridge. Lobuje East is reached by
descending a marked notch and then climbing
steep snowy slopes to the top. On most
occasions, the mountain is climbed on the summit
ridge only as far as a subsidiary snow summit
(or false peak), south–east of the true peak and
before the notch. Laurence Nielson and Ang
Gyalzen Sherpa made the first ascent of Lobuje
East on 25 April 1984 although it is possible
that others had reached the summit before but
did not record their climbs. To climb Lobuje we
follow the Everest base camp route to Gorak Shep,
continuing to Kala Pattar, at 5545m, because
this offers great views of Everest and good
acclimatisation. It is also possible to follow
the Gokyo valley and to cross the Chola pass, a
route which is also good for acclimatisation.
Whichever route we take us shall place a Base
Camp at Dzongla and a high camp at 5300m either
at a lake or a little higher near a pass. This
higher camp has a better view of the peak as
well as of Everest, Lhotse , Nupse, Makalu , Ama
Dablam, khangtenga and Tawache. |
Lobuche Peak Climbing
Itinerary in Details
